The Kerala Backwaters: A Guide to Houseboats, Kumarakom and Alleppey
The Kerala backwaters are a network of lakes, rivers and canals running parallel to the coast of south-west India. Life here moves at the pace of the water: fishermen cast their nets at dawn, children paddle to school, and rice grows in fields that lie below the level of the lake. For many travellers, a few days on the Kerala backwaters are the most restful part of a journey through India.
Where are the Kerala backwaters?
The heart of the backwaters is Vembanad Lake, the largest lake in Kerala, with the town of Alappuzha (Alleppey) to the south-west and the village resort area of Kumarakom on its eastern shore. Both are around two hours by road from Kochi, which has the nearest international airport.
Three ways to explore the Kerala backwaters
1. A night on a houseboat
The kettuvallam, or houseboat, was once used to carry rice and spices along the waterways. Today the finest are private, with a bedroom or two, a deck for watching the banks go by, and a cook who prepares Kerala dishes on board. One night is usually enough to enjoy the experience; we choose boats carefully and avoid the busiest stretches.
2. A lakeside stay in Kumarakom
Many travellers prefer to stay on land and go out on the water by day. Kumarakom has some of the loveliest lakeside hotels in Kerala, with sunset cruises on Vembanad Lake and the Kumarakom Bird Sanctuary close by. It is a gentle base for two or three nights, and part of our Kerala tour.
3. Village canals by canoe
The narrow canals are too small for houseboats, and are best explored in a country canoe. A morning paddle through the villages, past coir-makers, toddy tappers and temples, shows a side of the Kerala backwaters that larger boats never reach.
When to visit the Kerala backwaters
November to March brings warm, dry days and calm water, and is the most popular season. The monsoon, from June to September, is quieter and very green, with dramatic skies. The Nehru Trophy Boat Race, when long snake boats race on Punnamada Lake near Alappuzha, takes place in August. Our guide to the best time to visit India covers the seasons in more detail.
Combining the backwaters with the rest of Kerala
The backwaters sit at the centre of a natural route through Kerala: Kochi’s old quarter, the tea and spice hills of Munnar or Periyar, the backwaters, and a few days by the sea at Marari or Kovalam. For more ideas, see our guide to yoga and Ayurveda or the Kerala Tourism guide to the backwaters.
If you would like the Kerala backwaters to be part of your journey, tell us when you would like to travel.
